Friday, March 12, 2010

Kimono Cyberclasses

I've just learned about a series of three mini cyberclasses that Janet Perry is offering.  The classes (each class costs $27.50) include all the materials you need, from needle and threads to a small canvas from Patt and Lee Designs with instructions by Janet Perry.  The lessons and the answers to your questions are done via email in a Yahoo Group format so that you can choose to get your messages in digest form if you prefer.

The photo above shows the canvas for the first class which will be about using textured stitches.

The second class will be about shading and will feature a different small kimono from Patt & Lee Designs.

The third class will be on using different types of threads to create texture and will feature a third kimono design.

The first class starts April 1 so if you want to learn a bit more about fancying up your needlepoint, or if you know a beginner who'd enjoy this class, head over to Janet's blog to sign up.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
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How To Construct a Time Traveler's Machine

If you haven't read yesterday's comments about how to attach the door to the front of my Tardis, please go do so. There are a lot of great ideas folks contributed to the construction project!  You can find the Comments link at the bottom of each day's posting after the date. Just click on Comments and you can see what readers have said in reply to a posting.

I decided to use the wired stumpwork technique the Needleart Nut describes on her blog.  She's making leaves and flower petals and her fabric is different but the principle is the same.

The photo above is extra light so that you can see the wires poking out of the top and bottom edges of the separate door section.  I cut a length of size 28 beading wire that would allow a 2 inch tail on each end, bent it into a C shape, then attached it around the top, left side and bottom of the door with buttonhole stitch, using #12 cotton perle from DMC in the same blue as the cotton floss and #8 cotton perle I've used elsewhere.  If I manage it right, I can slip the door wires through the main canvas and secure them on the back side to have a door that opens.  But there is a long way to go before I get to that point and there are details like how to stitch the door handle, if a magnet will work to close the door, what to back the rear side of the door with, etc.  These are all problems we'll have to tackle but not today.

I should mention I left the #8 perle guidelines of the door in place and also buttonholed over them as well as the wire.  I want my door to have a raised edge.  I will have to outline the other door on the front the same way but there won't be wire there as the left side door doesn't open as Dr. Who #10 demonstrates above.

Last night I also covered some of the vertical outlines with 6 plies of my DMC cotton floss (#798) to make the edges of the Tardis.  The middle division line on the partly visible left side of the Tardis  is thinner than the two front corners of the Tardis.  I didn't use more cotton floss on the front corners--I just laid two more lines of #8 cotton perle there, then covered all the lines with six plies of my cotton floss.  You can see the three foundation threads on the right corner which isn't finished.  I realized that the foundation threads weren't quite straight last night and will have to pull them out again and start over.

Looks like if you have 5-6 inches of lines, it is smart to either tack them down or do them in sections so that they don't wiggle out of line.  I don't want to pull out and restitch the foundation lines in sections as those breaks might show when the DMC cotton floss covers them so I'll pull out the covering threads and then tack down the foundation perle cotton threads in a couple of places to make sure the right corner doesn't lean.

I'm also planning to buttonhole around the left door on the front.  Hopefully I can get all that done by tomorrow.  Buttonhole stitch takes a while if you want each stitch to be even.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
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Archived Yahoo 360 postings at