Monday, January 25, 2010

Stars for the New Millennium Errata Sheet

Errata Sheet for Stars by Tony Minieri

An unknown source posted this on ANG email list many years back.  I can't vouch for its veracity.  Note many of the problems listed were due to the number of plies recommended.  If you didn't use one of Tony's recommended color schemes, this may not apply to you.  The Needlepoint Etc. Yahoo Group also posted this information (and a blank form to fill in your colors) with a note that they had no problem with the number of plies and that they were advised to do the sashing as they worked to minimize wear and tear on these areas.  If you do this, you have to count very carefully the whole time you work the piece.

page 26 of Vivien Leigh - Do not end off the B-7 as you can carry it to Area 2.

page 27 there are two number 6s in the diagram - the one in the lower left corner should be 5

page 34 of Marlon Brando, step three- I used 4 plies of D-3 for this, as I thought it was too skimpy with only 1 ply.

page 35 - Area 3 - I used 4 plies of D-3 here also.

page 48 - Area 5 of Cary Grant - I used 3 plies of D-2.

page 71 of Ava Gardner - Area 2 - My book says use 4 srands B-11 but that color was not listed on the cover page for this square. I determined that it was supposed to read C-2 by looking at the pictures and the master chart for that square.

page 77 of Humphrey Bogart - I used 2 plies of A-11 for the first step, as again I thought it did not cover well.

page 80 - I used 5 strands of A-9 to get good coverage

no page number - Ingrid Bergman - This was the most difficult to get to look good. Areas 1 and 2 became very thick and it was hard to lay the Neon Rays nicely.

page 84 - Pull the Mistake Stitch tightly to reveal the Smyrna underneath. Mine got buried and I gave up and just left it that way.

page 85 - Do the D-4 stitch after Afrea 6. Then you can carry the thread without a stop and start.

page 88 - Gary Cooper - Page 88 left off B-11 which was required for page 91.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
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What Size Beads for What Size Lingerie Canvas?

Yesterday I noticed that Judy Harper recommends size 14 beads for 18 count needlepoint canvas and size 11 beads for 13 count.  She's got several examples on her blog of lovely beaded effects using the skip tent method of beading and varying whether she uses sparkly or less sparkly beads.

Her recommendation much matches what Fireside Stitchery used to post on their website:
18 count canvas:  14/0 or 1.25mm
13-14 count canvas:  11/0 or 1.33mm
12 count canvas:  10/0 or 1.35mm
10 count canvas: 8/0 or 6/0;  3-3.5mm
7 count plastic canvas: 5/0 or 4mm

Remember that bead sizes are written either 11 or 11/0--it's the same thing--and that the smaller the number, the larger the bead.  (Judy also points out that the term "seed beads" can mean any size.  A seed bead isn't always a tiny bead.)

So how come I'm using size 11 beads on size 18 needlepoint canvas?  Easy!  The totally clear beads I want to use don't come in size 14.  So I have to use a bead a little larger than I should.  Besides, I've noticed that the shape of the bead also effects what size bead fits what size canvas.  My Miyuki beads are also size 11 but they are smaller than the round size 11 Sundance beads.  Their shape is a cylinder so they fit together better on the 18 count canvas than my other size 11 beads which are rounded.  The Miyuki beads are't much larger than my Sundance size 14 hex beads!

In other words, depending on the effect you want, you don't have to stick to the recommended sizes.  Of course if you plan to completely cover a canvas like I'm doing, you probably wouldn't want beads much larger than one size above the recommended one.  But beads vary A LOT, so you have a little leeway on what you do. 

If you want to put a bead at the end of a coil of DMC memory thread to make a hat ornament, it probably doesn't matter what size it is as long as it looks good with the design.  In the photo above, the belt buckle is covered with rows of size 14 beads, and the belt area to the right of the buckle is covered with size 11 beads.  You can see the sizes are pretty similar.

In the photo above you see one leg of the tap pants iced over with beads.  The black area near the crotch has a missing bead because I didn't get them packed in tightly enough.  I'll go back and add that later.

I started out adding beads in horizontal rows, sort of like doing continental tent stitches.  I normally work from the top down but rapidly discovered that this hides the bead hole I should go down in.  So I have changed my working method to beading from the bottom of an area up.  This makes it easier for me to see where things go, especially if I start my stitch at the top and go down in the hole nearest the row of beads under where I am working.

I worked most of the leg this way and then realized it was even easier to work beads on the diagonal like basketweave.  So I am now working on the other leg from the bottom up along diagonal rows, switching thread colors when I move to another area in my stitching path.

I'm still using one ply of DMC cotton floss and going through each bead twice.  When I finish this canvas and move to the bra canvas, I'll try doubling my thread in the needle and attaching each bead in two passes--one through the bead and the second with a thread on either side to hold the bead steady.  I want to compare how easy the two methods are before I make a recommendation.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
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