Sunday, October 11, 2009

Tips for Better Backgrounds


I really should have titled this tips for better horizontal stitches but that doesn't sound as good, doesn't it?  Just remember that the tips below aren't just for background stitches, ok?

The photo on the left shows the split pavilion background stitches on each side of the Rabbit Geisha canvas and the basting thread I used to make sure that the two sides line up properly.

The best way to do a background stitch is to work from the middle out to each side so that you know the sides match up, but most painted canvases have things painted in the middle that make this impossible.  So I worked the background on the right side, then did a full row on the left and used basting to make sure that the two sides lined up.  You can also just drag your needle across a ditch to see if things match but I have trouble doing that so I baste a thread.

You'll notice that I turned the canvas on its side for the picture.  This is because when I am doing a fancy stitch made up of long straight horizontal stitches, I like to work these stitches vertically.  Turning the canvas on its side allows me to stitch vertically, which I think makes for smoother stitches.

I also use a laying tool for long straight stitches, whether they are horizontal or vertical.  Long lengths of thread will twist as you stitch them and a laying tool will deal with this tendency.  You'll end up with a smoother look to your background.


Here's a close up of the image above.  In it you can see the three rows of tent stitch that surround the perimeter.  See how I am working my current row one thread outside the blue paint of the background?  Always extend the background if necessary to make your stitch look good.  I could have compensated the background and shortened the split pavilion but it looks better if you don't.

My needle is stuck in the canvas so you can see that I like to work the stitches from the bottom of the row toward the top.  (Or from closer to me to further from me, however you want to think of it.)  Susan Portra says this ensures a smoother stitch.  She also advocates taking a pin stitch occasionally underneath a light coverage stitch to keep the threads snug.

I've noticed that if I tie a knot in the end of a new length of thread and start stitching, the first stitch will often be loose.  I have been careful to run my knotted length of thread under a few stitches on the back before stitching to keep the first stitch taut.


Once I finish the row I'm working in the close up photo, I will turn my canvas the other way so that I can do the other half of the split pavilion with my needle coming up in an empty hole and going down in a full hole.  This is often called the clean/dirty hole rule.  The general principal is to bring the needle up in a hole that hasn't been stitched into if possible and when you have a hole with a thread in it already, go down into that hole with your thread.  If you go down into a hole that has thread in it already (a "dirty" hole) you have less chance of disturbing the thread already in the hole.  Make sense?  Anyone who has stitched a metallic thread into a hole already stitched with silk who disturbed the silk threads will know why this is an important rule to follow whenever possible.

I hope these tips help you with your stitching.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
Archived Yahoo 360 postings at http://profiles.yahoo.com/chillyhollow

10 comments:

Robin said...

Great posting today, Jane. I have learned from Amy to use the Pinhead Stitch often for directional placement when you begin the new thread; it's also helpful for avoiding the looseness-syndrome.

The Chilly Hollow Needlepoint Adventure said...

I need to use the pinhead stitch more myself. I just am used to knots and of course a piece that will be on a tote bag means I don't worry so much about knots on the back side.

Robin said...

Like they say: there's more than one way to secure a thread!

Anonymous said...

Jane, How did you know that you had to extend the stitching beyond the blue paint? Could you have just started your stitch at the edge of the blue paint? Or did you count the stitchsand the threads spacing? Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Gayle

The Chilly Hollow Needlepoint Adventure said...

Gayle, I'm sorry I didn't make the reason I went over the blue background clearer. I started the background stitch on the right side with a complete row fitting into the painted area on the right, working rows toward the left. Once I got close to the left side, I knew that the rows of split pavilion would end naturally one row past where the blue paint stopped. Folks who are good with counting can count the background, do some math, and know where they have to start to not have to compensate either side but I'm not good with counting or math, so I just stitched everything until I knew I could end on the left side perfectly if I took the last row over one white thread.

Make sense?

Monica said...

is there a site where i can see the pinhead stitch described? i just bury or do away knot but this sounds like it would make for more even tension. thank you

The Chilly Hollow Needlepoint Adventure said...

Monica, pinhead stitches are used in Japanese Embroidery. I found this tutorial which shows it used in cross stitch but the same principles apply no matter what stitch you put on top.

http://www.scarletquince.com/pinhead_aida.php

You can find better instructions on Shay Pendray's books. Her Inventive Needlework is in print and easy to find on sale.

Monica said...

thank you

Monica said...

thanks - i looked at the link - this is simliar to the "L" stitch i do with my needlework and then work over it - same philisophy - just never heard the "pinstitch" moniker before. thank you so much.

The Chilly Hollow Needlepoint Adventure said...

Glad to help, Monica. One thing can go by many names, I guess.