Test Driving Threads (Part Two)

Once I got home with my new threads and actually started to stitch, I had to decide just where to use Trio and the holographic Kreinik.  I had two Trio skeins, a dark burgundy and a bright red.  I also had a ruby metallic, the holographic Kreinik.  The plaid itself just has two reds so one of the three threads was going to have to be discarded.  So I put the burgandy Trio aside and started some test stitches with the lighter red Trio and the metallic.  Since I had three sizes of the holograhic Kreinik, I had to test stitch with each. So there are actually four threads in the stitching above--one Trio and three Kreiniks.

If you look carefully at this close up, the #12 Kreinik holographic braid is the two fat lines just under the top paw.  Moving down directly under them, you see a line that has the right and left sides stitched but not the middle.  This row is in Trio.  The left side is one ply and the right side is two.  I was testing whether I could get away with one ply in these long slanting stitches.  I decided that for this stitch, I preferred two plies of the three that are in each strand of Trio.   Trio is easy to stitch with, by the way.  Each ply can be easily removed from a strand.  I used an 18 inch length of thread, which is normal for me, without any problems although the last three inches of the thread are worn by the needle and have to be cut off and discarded by the time I finish stitching.  I think the wool texture and the silk shine of Trio is going to look great on the plaid areas.

However, you should read the comments after yesterday's blog message.  Not everyone has an easy time with Trio.  The three plies can each be divided into two parts, giving you 6 plies altogether.  I would not do this myself as Trio is a delicate thread.  Separating it into six plies makes it very soft and delicate and the thread could separate as you stitch.  If you are having a great deal of trouble, try shorter lengths, a larger needle eye, and don't split it into more than 3 plies.

The row just under the Trio row is the #12 holographic braid again. At the bottom of the picture you see a strand of that thread in #8 braid.  Note how the cut end frays.  You will need to be careful on the back side that none of these loose ends wiggle out and show on the front.  This row also shows that occasionally some of the shiny Mylar that gives holographic thread its shine will become exposed.  You'll get a silver "streak" there.  I will have to remove part of this stitch and cut out the streak and restitch but since this is test stitching, I left it.  I know most if not all of the stitches I've done will be pulled out since this is Just A Test.

Using the same close up photo again, look at the red block just above the lower paw.  This is done with the #8 holographic red Kreinik.  I also did a row of tent stitches to the right of this block between the white and yellow lines.  I decided I like the #8 braid better for tent stitches but the #12 braid better for the slanted rows.

At the very bottom of the ornament near the cut frayed thread is the 1/16 inch ribbon.  In this piece the holographic read is a little shinier using the holographic ribbon and the texture is flatter, especially next to any red plaid in the Trio.  I think I am going to use the #8 braid holographic Kreinik for the tent stitched single lines and the #12 braid holographic Kreinik for the longer slanted lines that fill a fatter row.

You have to remember that just because I choose to use the #8 and #12 braid for my piece that yours won't do better in the 1/16 inch ribbon.  It all depends on the stitch you are using, the threads stitched next door to this area, and the effect you want.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
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