Sunday, November 1, 2009

Canvas of the Month by Jane (Snow Cat)



My Canvas of the Day postings with stitch ideas have been very popular but they take more time than I have to write except occasionally. Blog readers love them, however, so I have recruited a guest writer to help me come up with ideas for a painted canvas occasionally.

Please welcome Bonnie, who is going to do a Canvas of the Month entry periodically with me. The way this will work is that Bonnie and I will take turns choosing a painted canvas, then both of us will write up ideas for stitching it. Each set of ideas will be a separate blog entry so you can see different approaches to the same piece. We hope to do this once a month but with the holidays approaching like a runaway train, don't be surprised if we can't meet that schedule.

The first canvas is Bonnie's choice: Snow Cat from Brenda Stofft. This is an 18 count canvas that is 9 inches high and 6 wide. There is a Snow Bunny canvas that is very similar also in Brenda Stofft's line of canvas although it is narrower, only 4 1/2 inches wide. http://www.brendastofftdesigns.com/PC120048.JPG

You've just read Bonnie's thoughts about stitching this canvas. Mine are below. I should add that Bonnie and I wrote up our thoughts separately without having read the other person's approach first. I hope that you'll find our similarities and differences interesting.   Note that she thought that the lighter blue on the ground was more snow and I thought it was water but Bonnie's daughter thinks it is ice.  All ideas are ones that would lead a stitcher to try a slightly different stitch and/or thread, and all are "right" although perhaps not what the designer intended.

I think the first thing I would do is make a color copy of the canvas so that I could stitch right over the snowflakes all over the canvas areas, then add them back in at the end.  Now remove the gold snowflake charms and put them in a safe place. They will be reattached at the very end. 

This design is unusual in that there is so much fur in the piece. The cat is furry, of course, and wears a jacket and hat trimmed in fur. The eyes should be stitched first in something a bit wet looking like Flair or a metallic. Do the black outline and pupil in the same type of thread. I would stitch the face, ears, paws, tail and legs in tent stitch using shades of ivory and gray, charcoal and black in silk/wool blends like Impressions or in Vineyard Silks.

Once the cat body is finished, stitch the blue stocking cap and the jacket in Interlocking Goblein. I would use a wool or wool/silk thread that matches the lovely light blue shades. When the blue jacket and cap areas are finished, stitch the white fur trim in a thread that is stark white, using Double Stitch, which is made up of a large cross stitch four threads high but only one wide that alternates with a small cross stitch over just one thread intersection. I would use something like perle cotton as the thread for this as it would contrast with the fur on the cat's body and the jacket and hat. It is also a stitch easy to compensate, which is important when you are stitching a round or curved section. 

For the dark blue sky, use navy blue Kreinik (or any metallic you prefer) and stitch the entire area in Diagonal Triple Parisian Stitch. Remember, you will stitch right over the snowflakes. When the dark blue sky is done, use Diagonal Triple Parisian stitch to stitch the light blue water area behind the cat, in a matching metallic thread. When you choose the dark blue and light blue metallic threads, use a lighter weight thread for the dark blue than the light blue water. You will want the light blue area to be slightly heavier than the dark blue sky. 

For the snow, try Criss Cross Hungarian in Caron's Snow, which is a metallic chainette-type thread. It comes in various colors, including white and blue, so you will be able to switch colors as necesary as you work each row. When you are finished, put a small white or blue bead (or French knot using your Snow if you don't like beads) in the empty spots between the slanting groups of lines. You could also do a tiny cross stitch in metallic thread. Silver might look very pretty with the blue and the white Snow. 

Now it is time to work on the staff. I like to use ribbon floss for barber pole stripes. Work other from the top of the staff, alternating the ribbon floss colors, and lay long diagonal lines. Tent stitch the snowman in the same white thread you used for the fur trim, then add black stitches for the eyes and mouth. These can be either French knots or small tent stitches. Stitch the carrot nose in a bright orange thread, using long stitches laid in a triangle shape to the point of the nose. It probably will be easiest to use cotton floss for the orange nose. Once the snowman and his features are done, add two beads for the buttons on his front. Using a pink wool or wool/silk blend,put a few short horizontal stitches in the brim area, making sure to stay well inside the painted area. Now stitch the pink hat brim using long slanted stitches right over the padding. This will give the hat brim some dimension. Do a few turkeywork stitches in the round pink area at the tip of the snowman's hat. Leave the loops uncut until the end. You may decide that you want to not cut them at all, or you may want to cut the loops and then trim the loose ends to make a more furry ball. Using a wool or wool/silk blend in green and the same pink thread you have been using, lay long diagonal stitches again, following the painted area. You may use the green to do a few straight horizontal stitches at the base of the fuzzy ball at the tip of the stocking cap. 

To do the long strings that hang off the staff and the handle and trim of the purse, you need to couch gold Kreink (probably #8 or #12 size) along the right areas. Refer to the color copy to see exactly where to place things. Once all the strings are on, attach red beads to the purse dangles. 

Stitch the snowman purse itself entirely in tent stitches, using the same threads you have used on the snowman that tops the staff.  I would also stitch the blue and white snowballs in tent stitches, using cotton floss as well. If you want to be really fancy, try using blue and white metallics for the snowballs, but not the blue and white Snow which I think a bit thick for the tiny area. 

Once everything is stitched, now you can add the white snowflakes. Pull out your color copy and put white beads everywhere there is a small snowflake. Once they are done, do the large snowflakes using a fuzzy thread like Cashmere in a very loose stitch. Come up through the background and then lay the stitch in any direction that you need. You will have a very fluffy large flake here and there on the canvas. Note that you don't have to use as many snowflakes as on the original canvas. With everything stitched over, no one will know that your Snow Cat is supposed to be standing in a blizzard. 

The final step is to attach the gold snowflake charms at the end of the staff dangles. Note that Bonnie didn't think the gold snowflakes were charms--she thought they were painted on. Neither of us have seen this canvas in person so we don't know whether the gold snowflakes can be attached later but for the purposes of coming up with stitch ideas, it really doesn't matter. 

Stay tuned next month (if Christmas doesn't kill all our free time) for my Canvas of the Month choice.

Again, many, many thanks to Bonnie for being my guest blogger for this monthly canvas ideas series!

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
Archived Yahoo 360 postings at http://profiles.yahoo.com/chillyhollow

Canvas of the Month By Bonnie (Snow Cat)




My Canvas of the Day postings with stitch ideas have been very popular but they take more time than I have to write except occasionally. Blog readers love them, however, so I have recruited a guest writer to help me come up with ideas for a painted canvas occasionally. 

Please welcome Bonnie, who is going to do a Canvas of the Month entry periodically with me. The way this will work is that Bonnie and I will take turns choosing a painted canvas, then both of us will write up ideas for stitching it. Each set of ideas will be a separate blog entry so you can see different approaches to the same piece. We hope to do this once a month but with the holidays approaching like a runaway train, don't be surprised if we can't meet that schedule. 

The first canvas is Bonnie's choice: Snow Cat from Brenda Stofft. This is an 18 count canvas that is 9 inches high and 6 wide. There is a Snow Bunny canvas that is very similar also in Brenda Stofft's line of canvas although it is narrower, only 4 1/2 inches wide. http://www.brendastofftdesigns.com/PC120048.JPG 

Below is what Bonnie says about this canvas. My thoughts on stitching it will be the next blog entry. 

Bonnie:  "Being a cat person, I love this canvas. The trick is going to be that since the canvas is a lot of the same colors – making each part slightly different that the rest based on texture and stitches. My thoughts on the canvas… 

Eyes – All done in a strandable silk like Splendor, using tent stitch and choosing a direction that fits the eye shape best. White dot in center of eye add a strand or two of blending filament for sparkle. Outlined with in a stem stitch to get the perfect shape. 

Fur – All done in long and short stitch follwing the direction of the fur with multiple shades of something fuzzy I could brush when done to get fur effect - like Faux fur, Designer Dream, Whisper. Pad the muzzle area first and then put on lots of layers to get depth there. Black outlines on face and paws stem stitches in black floss. Insides of ear – something shiny like neon rays or a silk perle in a satin stitch. 

Fur on Coat – All fur trim done in looped tent stitch with something like Burmalana so slightly furry yet a different look than the cat. Need to make sure the coat doesn’t blend with the cat. What I mean by looped tent stitch is a tent stitch where you take something like a laying tool and put it under each stitch so it doesn’t lay flat to the canvas when done, but looks like lots of loops. Make pom-pom bigger loops than rest. Small loops around ears so don’t lose them! Could also do turkey tufting and sculpt the areas. 

Blue on coat – Find a cotton overdye that matches some of the blue colors and has some variation but subtle. Use a stitch that doesn’t have an obvious diagonal direction but more of a vertical orientation, but can also be turned on its side for the hat - alternating oblong cross, Hungarian, or pavilion diamonds are some possibilities.

Staff – red and white out of ribbon or neon rays in simple long diagonal stitches. Ribbons done in a couched cord or braid when all done with ends done in same fiber maybe with a lazy daisy or something to give some depth. 

Snowman – tent stitch and cross stitch in a floss with some blending filament mixed in for shimmer. 

Hat consider looped tent for fur and tassel to ‘match’ coat. 

Basket – all done in tent and satin stitches with Smyrna crosses for eyes and mouth. Something with sheen to contrast with cat like silk or maybe some perle cotton for parts.  Snow inside with a 032 Kreinik braid or flair to match snow in front. Handle and fly-aways in couched metallic with French knots at red ends.

Sky – darning pattern in a cotton solid or overdye (few strands of floss or maybe a small perle cotton) or my old stand by a t-stitch – very light coverage so fades away in the background.

Snow in front – Nobuko in flair, some sheer fiber, some finer braid that would allow shading to show through or maybe a white/blue oeverdye with something added for a slight sparkle. Want to make sure it looks heavier than ‘middle’ snow, but still allows some shading to happen. Snow in back – Stitch something like the medieval mosaic (horizontal stitches) in same fibers as snowman but lighter coverage – lighten up the blue to a very pale blue tending towards white. 

Snowflakes – beads or sequins"

Thanks for the great ideas, Bonnie!

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
Archived Yahoo 360 postings at http://profiles.yahoo.com/chillyhollow

Saturday, October 31, 2009

Halloween With Robin and Her Sisters



If you've ever watched an Amy Bunger DVD, visited her website, read Amy's e-newsletter, or taken a class in her store, you've probably seen Robin King's stitching.  Robin is the webmaster, DVD producer, and teacher in the shop.

If you've ever paid attention to Robin's designs posted on Amy's website, you might notice that they are almost all Halloween designs.  Robin, she loves Halloween!  And Robin loves her sisters. The photo above shows Midge on the left and Kathy on the right (and a stitched Robin pillow in the chair).  She loves them enough that she is about to finish a third witch pillow, one for each of the King Girls.  Robin clarifies that all the pillows live with her:   "The pillows are still in my possession.  I told them about how they were the inspiration for each pillow, but I don't think they saw the compliment.  Since I don't want to break up the Trio, I will be the Pillow Keeper."





Midge's witch is called Connie.  She has black and white ruffles around her pillow.  The design is from Mile High Princess from Artists Collection and the design is MHP-2209.








Here's a close up so you can see all the wonderful things Amy Bunger came up with for Robin to use on this design.  Note how the very diagonal background stitch looks great with this piece.  I've always avoided very diagonal backgrounds for most pieces but this one has me rethinking that policy.  Love the bat, by the way!













Kathy's witch is called Myrtle Boo Queen.  This Mile High Princess design (available from Artists Collection) is MHP-H13, and was the first witch in the series that Robin stitched.

Again, the diagonal background looks great.  I also love the green pointed shoes and the orange pumpkin and its dimensional stem.







Here's a close up so you can see just how much you envy Kathy.
















The very last pillow in the series is Robin's own witch portrait and she hasn't finished it yet but I talked her into showing it off for you as it is close to being done.



 Only the background and one of the bats remains unstitched.  This is Mile High Princess (Artists Collection) number MHP-2210.  Robin says this is from an Amy Bunger stitch guide she wrote in one of Amy's Cook Up classes.

I am sure you join me in thanking Robin for sharing these pieces for our Blog Halloween celebration today.  If you want to see more of Robin's stitching, browse the photos of finished pieces on Amy Bunger's website.  If anything Halloween comes up, it'll probably be Robin's!
http://www.amybunger.com/Finished_Gallery.html

If you are charmed enough to want to see more of the Mile High Princess witches, here is the website.
http://www.artistscollection.net/Artists_Collection/Halloween_Gallery.html

Have a stitching Halloween, everyone!


Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
Archived Yahoo 360 postings at http://profiles.yahoo.com/chillyhollow

Cameo Flap Done, Front and Back Started



The flap on the front of the cameo ornament is done!  Hurrah!

I did have some trouble with the mitered center as I failed to understand the mirror imaging at first but that was because I forgot the first rule of counted thread stitching:  Read the instructions several times and study the diagrams carefully.

Gay Ann Rogers uses hand drawn diagrams which are very precise and detailed and I just missed the direction of one of the sections which had to be ripped out.  My fault.

Anyway, this piece is attached at the top of its section to the front of the ornament so you can pin a cameo broach there.  Lift the flap and unpin the cameo to wear it.  I'm going to attach my cameo bead I got from Gay Ann but I want the flap liftable so the bead can be removed and a real cameo put on the ornament if my mother wishes.



I have the front and back of the ornament outlined.  They are identical at this point but after I do the second step of the outlining, they will begin to diverge.  By the way, if you look at the photos you'll see why I marked Top on my two canvases.  The flap, front and back are symmetrical, which means it is easy to get confused and forget which end is up.  Gay Ann's diagrams have the top marked and I think it is smart to mark the end of the canvas you are working as well.

My 24 count congress cloth is the sage green, a very pretty color when combined with the ecru-with-a-green-tint perle cotton.  I am using #12 perle cotton from Valdani in color 15.  I haven't used this thread before.  I've discovered that it is softer and less shiny than DMC perle cotton.  Like any perle cotton, it does become abraded going through the congress cloth.  I have found that it is best to use around a 12 inch length.  My cameo ornament is small enough that the longest length of thread I've needed is about 18 inches.  The thread does knot itself if you aren't careful, which is another reason to use shorter lengths.

I am using the John James needles I won at the Gone Stitching Radio podcast when they had a prize from Terry Collingham of the Colonial Needle Company.  I received a set of platinum needles and a set of gold needles plus one of their Pebble case assortments of tapestry needles.
http://www.blogtalkradio.com/Gone-Stitching

I am testing the gold needles on this project.  Gay Ann Rogers recommends using a size 24 needle so I pulled one out of the package.  The first thing you'll notice is the needles are gold in color, especially around the eye.
http://www.colonialneedle.com/cgi-bin/quikstore.cgi?search=yes&hits_seen=60&keywords=James

The second thing you'll notice is that they squeak going through the congress cloth!  I tried them out on the Rabbit Geisha also and if you are going through a hole with a thread already there or if you are using the needle on congress cloth with perle cotton, the needle will give a little squeaking sound as it pushes its way through the hole.  You soon get used to this and I only hear it occasionally anyway.  I suspect I am using a slightly large needle for the congress cloth but Gay Ann says to use a size 24 because you are stitching with #12 perle cotton.  Ordinarily I would be using a 26 size needle on congress cloth but I am stitching with a fat thread that needs a slightly larger needle eye.

So far I don't see any signs of wear on the needle.  I have acid hands which take the plating off many brands of needles.  I'll keep you informed about how well the gold needles hold up as I get further into the project.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
Archived Yahoo 360 postings at http://profiles.yahoo.com/chillyhollow

Friday, October 30, 2009

Introducing Gay Ann Roger's Cameo Ornament



Although I mostly stitch painted canvases, I occasionally venture out into the world of Counted Thread, especially when there is a project I absolutely love that is charted.  On the right you see my next project, Gay Ann Roger's large cameo ornament.  She taught two versions of a cameo ornament at Callway.  I'm stitching the larger one which is seen on the right.  It is going to be my mother's Christmas present as she loves cameos. I know she will love this piece!  But I'm going to have to hurry as this needs to be finished and made up into an ornament by Thanksgiving.  By the way, the link below is to Gay Ann Roger's blog.  On it she posted photos of all the cameo designs she has taught.  Each year in October she has what she calls E-Week when she sells selected designs from her years of teaching.  I saw and purchased my cameo ornament instructions this year from her website (second link below).  Don't miss the techniques pages.  You can get great hints from The Queen of Bullions herself that will come in very handy whether you are a painted canvas person, an embroider, a counted thread lover, or just interested in hand work.
http://gayannrogers.blogspot.com/2007_10_01_archive.html

http://www.gayannrogers.com/site_2/Home_Page.html

The instructions arrived promptly and I immediately sat down and read through them twice.  In my experience, reading the instructions several times before you start really helps, especially when you are working from class instructions that were meant to be worked with the teacher present.  There are always a few little questions which Gay Ann answered via email promptly.


By the way, I also ordered the cameo bead separately from the instructions from Mrs. Rogers.  It really finishes off this piece beautifully, especially since I know my mother doesn't have a pin she would want to put on the ornament.

For this piece you use #12 perle cotton, #8 Kreinik braid, #8 perle cotton and silk ribbon on congress cloth.  The ornament is made up of three parts:  the front, the back and a flap on the front to attach your cameo.  The instructions include finishing tips and how to make the double tassel that finished the piece.  I choose sage green congress cloth, ecru perle cotton and Kreinik silver braid #102.  I am undecided about the silk ribbon.  I have a lot of shades of pink for the silk ribbon roses but may borrow ecru silk ribbon from a fellow threadaholic to use instead.  I am a bit worried that ecru flowers won't set off the ecru cameo button properly.  We'll see.

As I have a tight deadline, once I finished the squiggles on the Rabbit Geisha, I started the front flap piece.  Here is my progress so far.



Next time I'll talk about the perle cotton I'm using for this piece.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
Archived Yahoo 360 postings at http://profiles.yahoo.com/chillyhollow