Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Canvas of the Month: Little Pilgrim Girl (Jane)




November's Canvas of the Month is from Melissa Shirley.  It is a 4x5 inch design on 18 count canvas of a little Pilgrim girl carrying a pumpkin in a pie tin.  It is part of a set of six Thanksgiving-themed designs which you can see on her What's New page right under the new Halloween designs.

This isn't the first time Melissa Shirley has designed a piece of a little girl carrying a pumpkin in a pie tin.  One of her Victorian Halloween vintage postcard designs has some of the same elements.

Below are Jane's stitch ideas for this Canvas of the Month. Bonnie's ideas will be published next.

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When I looked at this piece, it seemed to need a very traditional treatment.  Thanksgiving is a holiday that celebrates family and the harvest and all the wonderful things in our lives we are grateful for.  If that isn't tradition, I don't know what is!  That doesn't mean this has to be a boring piece, though.  I think the first thing I would do is find a darning stitch of an acorn shape to use in the background behind the little girl.  If you can't find anything suitable, copy the row of acorns at the base of this design, then scatter them in the background in tent stitches using a slightly darker pumpkin color than the background paint. I would suggest finding a thread that matches the background color, then a slightly darker color.  You can put the acorns in rows or just scatter them around.  I'd scatter them myself.  Once you have acorns, tent stitch the lighter pumpkin color.  

Now move to the golden arch and tent stitch it with the correct color.  If you can find a silk/wool blend to match the color, it would look lovely.  The leaves need to be stitched in long and short stitch using the right colors.  I would use silk flosses for them.  Then stem stitch the stems of the leaves in whatever black DMC floss you have at hand.

Tent stitch the gray ground the little girl stands on, then do a single thin border row in the same pale pumpkin color you used for the background.  Again, use tent stitches for this tiny border.  If you are sick of tent, use tall and skinny cross stitches two threads high but only one thread wide.  

For the acorn border base, use the darker orange thread from the leaves to tent stitch the dark orange background behind the acorns.  Use a gold metallic in a tiny cross stitch over the dots between each acorn.  Now stitch the dark brown tops of the acorns in cross stitches, using the same dark brown you chose for her dress (next section).  The light part of the acorn proper should be stitched in your pale pumpkin background thread.  Use one tent stitch for the acorn base and do long horizontal stitches for the acorn proper.  

Tent stitch the little girl's brown gown in three shades of a thread that is not very shiny.  Try using something like Petite Very Velvet or Vineyards Silk that will look like a glowing wool outfit.   Her dress is not fancy but you do want texture and warmth there.

Tent stitch her hands and face and features, matching the colors to any silks you have.  I love how silk gives skin a glow.  Use the black DMC cotton floss from the leave stems for her eyelashes, using one ply to lay down little stitches to match the painting on the canvas.

Give her either French knot curls in wool or try using packed stem stitch if you prefer less curly hair.  Use cotton or silk  floss for the hair if you don't use wool.

Tent stitch the pumpkin pie tin in the same gray thread you used for the ground she stands on.  You will also need to tent stitch the crimped edge in shades of yellow that you used for the leaves.  

The pumpkin itself should be in three shades of silk floss, using slanted diagonal long stitches on the right and left side and then a straight horizontal stitch for the middle section.  Top off the pumpkin with a stem done in stem stitch and make your leaf at the base using lazy daisy stitches done on top and/or beside each other.  It's ok if the green paint underneath shows.  That will give the base of the stem dimension.

Tent stitch the tiny black shoe (Petite Very Velvet in black or a wool thread that looks like felt when stitched), then use white silk for the little stocking and then the apron string that goes behind her back (also tent).

Now for the fun part - the cap, cape, cuffs and apron.  For these you will need silk flosses in white and pale gray, and also need the silk flosses you used for the leaves.  Start with the ribbon hem of her apron and using the shades of yellow, stitch the area with Interlocking Goblein.  Compensate carefully at the top and bottom of the area as you don't want the band's top or bottom to be jagged.

Tent stitch the little bit of the apron below the yellow hem band, matching the white and gray shading with your silks.

Stitch the cuffs in the same Interlocking Goblein stitch.  You may want to use an outline stitch for the gray area below the front cuff instead of trying to use Interlocking Goblein there also.

Use Interlocking Goblein stitch for the cap except for the ruffle around the edge.  If you want you can substitute padded satin stitches instead of Interlocking Goblein but the shading will be harder if you do.  However, you can always add a few gray stitches with a sharp needle on top of the padded satin stitches if you like.  You can also put them on top of the Interlocking Goblein to show the shade lines of the cap if you prefer.  

For the broad Pilgrim collar, do vertical long stitches at the top nearest the next.  The next indented area should be done in horiontal long stitches.  Then finish the broad bottom of the collar with Interlocking Goblein. 

Now tent stitch the cap's ruffled edge with only 3-4 plies of your white silk. When you are finished, go back with 2-3 plies and do detached buttonhole right along the very edge, just covering those white tent stitches.  That will give the cap a little eyelet-looking ruffle.

The final step is to stitch the apron above the yellow hem band.  Use Interlocking Goblein again, although you may wish to once again add gray stem stitches among the very edge of the apron in front instead of switching colors.

If you really want something a bit fancier (although true Pilgrims would not wear fancy aprons), try Damask Stitch (from Stitches for Effect, page 27) to give the apron a bit of texture.  If you use fewer plies, the gray shading will show through.  If you completely cover in Damask Stitch, you will need to stitch the whole apron in white, then put in shade lines using your gray thread in stem stitches in the right places.

This will make a lovely Thanksgiving ornament for years to come, no matter how you stitch it.

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!


Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
Archived Yahoo 360 postings at http://profiles.yahoo.com/chillyhollow

Monday, November 23, 2009

Some Progress


O'jishi's background is about 75% finished.  I am trying to get as much done as possible during the holiday season as by now the alternating cashmere pairs are second nature. I got a lot of stitching time in before holiday chores took priority this weekend.

Hope everyone isn't as busy as me and that any holiday preparations you are doing go quickly and easily.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
Archived Yahoo 360 postings at http://profiles.yahoo.com/chillyhollow

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Not My Fault




I got a hilarious email from Judie of Thistle Needleworks/Alex Paras Needlework yesterday.  She just finished designing this painted canvas kit which is called Chilly Santa and posted a photo on her Alex Paras website.  Almost immediately she was asked if it was based on Chilly Hollow!  LOL

No, this is not my fault.  I don't resemble Chilly Santa in any way, shape, or form (although I do have gold wire rimmed glasses, come to think about it).
http://store.apneedlearts.com/chsaex.html

When I quit laughing, I asked Judie about her use of DMC memory thread for the gold glasses and the white beard, specifically if she had any tips for using it.

She replied, "I found it very easy to work with -- this is the second piece I have used it on. The gold held up very well, but I have found that the threads that are wound around the copper core wire sometime fray a bit. Others have recommended dipping the ends in FrayCheck but I found that all I had to do was snip off the unraveled ends."

Thanks for the memory thread advice, Judie, and for the laugh.  Now I guess I'd better be cautious about eating everything in sight over Thanksgiving and Christmas or I might actually be mistaken for Chilly Santa later on!
Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
Archived Yahoo 360 postings at http://profiles.yahoo.com/chillyhollow

Saturday, November 21, 2009

If You Have Been Really, Really Good



I just got Vikki Clayton's Hand Dyed Fibers newsletter and found something mentioned there for those who have been really good this year--a needlework casket.  A very expensive one, but it is lovely.
http://www.hand-dyedfibers.com/oscnuked/modules.php?name=catalog&file=product_info&products_id=3393&osCsid=057d6e08d7055f4257759d3071bac8f2

or Tiny URL
http://preview.tinyurl.com/yka4k3z

Click on the link at the bottom of the above article for a lot of photos, but note that Vikki only has two of these in stock right now.

I think this box is gorgeous.  It would be spectacular with all the wooden panels covered in stitching, wouldn't it?  I suspect this is more suitable for counted thread stitchers than it is for NPrs, but since many of us do both types of needle arts, I had to mention it.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
Archived Yahoo 360 postings at http://profiles.yahoo.com/chillyhollow

The Locking L Stitch in Close-Up




I have about 40% of O'jishi's background done at this point,
which is boring for you to watch and boring for me to stitch. However, I am mulling over other parts of the canvas, like what to stitch next, how and with what thread while I work the background, so I am not just working the background--I'm thinking! But you would be bored so I have other things to talk about here to keep you coming back.
I've not been happy with my posting about how to tie off the Alternating Cashmere Pairs in this background when you need to end a length of thread and start another.  So let's talk about this a bit more, ok?  In the extreme close-up photo above you see that I haven't done as good a job with the laying tool as I might have.  I'll stroke that twisted stitch with my needle and since there are only two plies, it'll probably straighten out.   This might not work for many plies, but for 2 plies only I ought to be able to fix the twisted stitch by stroking it carefully without pulling out that area and restitching it.

If you look carefully at the photo in the area just under the lowest alternating cashmere pairs, you'll see that I have finished one of the pairs and started another with the first tent stitch.  Two threads to the right and up another two threads you'll see what is called the Locking L Stitch or just plain L Stitch.  It's also called a pinhead stitch.  As far as I can find out, this is a stitch from Japanese Embroidery used to start/stop threads.  I believe Shay Pendray, who was a very experienced Japanese Embroidery student, first started using this in her needlepoint and taught many students to use this stitch.  Its use has spread.  (It is mentioned on Amy Bunger's needle weaving DVD I just reviewed, for instance.)  Most really good stitchers I know use it at least occasionally when they need to secure a thread.

What you do is take two little stitches, each over one thread, to make an L shape, then run the loose end under the thread on the back side.  This helps keep threads (particularly silks) from wiggling out from the back side.  It is also used to start stitching.

You put your Locking L stitch in an area that will be covered later by stitching.  As you can see, the longer stitches of the cashmere block will cover the little stitches.

As you know, I like to do light coverage stitches in my needlepoint.   When you do light coverage stitches, there isn't much thread on the front.  (Duh.)  But there also isn't much on the back side to anchor threads under.  In my experience, if you don't do the Locking L stitch when doing light coverage stitches, you will need a more solid area somewhere nearby to run your tail of thread through on the back.  If there isn't something to hold that thread tail, whether it be a nearby section of dense tent stitches or a Locking L stitch, the threads will start to wiggle loose and you will have to retighten them.

In the photo above, if I decide to use the coral shaded stitches as a border, I could tie off there.  My one ply of Watercolours is thick enough on the back to hold the tails of stitches close to it.  But since I don't know if I'll use that as a border, and there is a ton of background not close to the edge, I am using the Locking L stitch to make sure I don't have threads wiggling out from under the back side.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
Archived Yahoo 360 postings at http://profiles.yahoo.com/chillyhollow