The Computer Pixie Has a Frame

The Computer Pixie, Framed!

I finally got around to framing my Computer Pixie* by turning under the edges and adding a twisted cord I made from size 5 perle cotton, then attaching her with glue to the back of a shadow box frame I found on sale at Michael's.  She's off to the county fair to charm all the folks visiting the Needlework Exhibit.  She was a lot of fun, even though I went off the rails quite often when it came to following Sheena's fun stitch guide.  I do love stitching humorous canvases and people!

*Design by Ruth Schmuff, with a free Sheena James stitch guide.
https://bedeckedandbeadazzled.com/product/computer-pixie/

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
and at http://chstitchguides.blogspot.com
© Copyright August 14, 2017 Jane M. Wood. All rights reserved.

Using DMC's Metallic Mesh on Needlepoint

At the end of last summer, I heard about DMC's new stitchable metallic mesh fabric.
https://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com/2016/08/dmcs-stitchable-mesh-fabric.html

In December DMC sent me some to play with.
https://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com/2017/01/dmcs-stitchable-metallic-mesh.html

My first task was to try and mount it somehow so I could stitch with it easier.  I ended up using stretcher bars and thumbtacks.
https://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com/2017/02/framing-up-dmc-stitchable-metallic-mesh.html

My plan was to stitch one of Threedles' counted Christmas ornaments using one of the charts in Needlepoint Now's December 2015 issue.  Sadly, that didn't work out.  I found it impossible to count out such a complicated project on the metallic mesh.  I simply couldn't see the holes well enough.

My Darning Cat And More

I even had trouble doing a simple darning stitch.   I  tried one of Sheena's Halloween cat diagrams but even this wasn't easy to work.  I found the holes being so small a real handicap for stitching.  (I was using two plies of cotton floss, by the way.) You can see the cat in the upper left of the photo above, by they way.
http://www.sheenasstitches.com/halloween-scaredy-cats/

So I stopped and thought about what I was doing, then came up with A Plan.  (I love a plan!)  DMC says this metallic mesh is meant to be embroidered on and they provide a floral design outline to trace and then fill the outline with stitching.  So why not sketch a shape on the mesh and then stitch inside the outline using needlepoint stitches?    I decided I would draw the rough shape of my Computer Pixie's tote bag on the metallic mesh and see if I could stitch it, then cut out the shape and appliqué it to my needlepoint canvas.    I used one of the blue quilting pens to draw the shape on the metallic mesh.  These are the pens that are supposed to disappear over time or with the application of COLD water.  (Hot water sets the lines, as does ironing, leaving your project in the car in the summer, etc.)  It worked quite well.    If you look at the Darning Cat photo above again, you'll see the blue outline of the tote bag on the right plus my blue quilting pen posing in front of its work.

Tote Bag and Applique

By the way, in the photo above I've already stitched the tote bag on the needlepoint canvas by weaving it on the surface.  I simply repeated the weave stitching on the metallic mesh.   I used two plies of Mandarin Floss for each version of the tote, stitching long vertical lines and then weaving shorter horizontal lines by going over and under the vertical thread lines.

Buttonhole Stitch Holds the Folded Down Top Edge

Then I cut away the top part of the metallic mesh—using paper scissors instead of my good embroidery scissors--turned under the top margin of the tote bag appliqué, and using buttonhole stitch, started securing the top.  That's what you see above, the buttonhole stitch underway.  Note on the left side near the buttonhole stitching that the metallic mesh is starting to fray.    When I cut out the other three sides and turned them under, intending to attach them to the needlepoint canvas, leaving the buttonhole edge free so I could insert something into the tote bag, fraying became a problem. I still managed to attach three sides of the appliqué tote bag to the canvas, stitching through the turned under metallic mesh edges and the underlying canvas with a sharp needle, with one ply of the same Mandarin Floss I used to create the tote bag weaving.  But fraying was a constant issue and it showed in places.

Shape Outlined with Fabric Glue

The fraying taught me that I should have used something to stabilize the edges of the tote bag shape before cutting it out.  So I tried again, first outlining a rough square with my blue quilting pen, then going around outside the shape with a line of Arlene's Tacky Glue, which dries clear on needlepoint.  (In the photo above the glue has not yet been spread as close to the blue line as it should be since I wanted you to see both the line and the glue.)   I used a toothpick to place and spread my glue and let it dry 24 hours.  Then I cut it out as close to the blue line as possible, using my paper scissors, not my good embroidery scissors.

Glued Metallic Mesh, Top Edge Buttonholed

This is the end result, seen from the silver side.  (I always drew and stitched on the gold side, reasoning that the gold mesh, if visible through my green threads, would look better than the silver.)  The top edge is turned under and I've been doing buttonhole on it.  The spacing is odd because I was attempting a decorative buttonhole stitch.  Note the fraying on the bottom of the piece of metallic mesh.  I deliberately did not cut through the middle of the dried glue there.  Instead I cut the mesh next to the dried edge of glue.  It would be relatively easy to turn under the bottom and side edges to the blue line, then stitch right through the glue (using a sharp needle again) and also through the needlepoint canvas to appliqué this onto the canvas.

Glue solves the fraying issue nicely.  By the way, when I was playing with this—I handled the glued sample quite a bit, trying to make it fray—I realized that the silver side, properly glued and cut to shape, would work beautifully as a window screen on a canvas of a house.  The painted canvas underneath will show through the holes.  The only drawback is that the holes are small so you'll have to attach the silver mesh side out to your canvas with floss.  Those holes are pretty small!

Tote Applique Fraying on the Upper Right Corner and Left Side

But back to my Computer Pixie.  I now had an appliqué tote bag but the frayed edges were showing slightly.  What to do?!

Computer Pixie, Done and Awaiting a Frame

Heck, just put stuff on top of and inside the bag.  Easy peasy!

Many thanks to DMC for sending me the metallic mesh fabric to play with.   I have most of the sheet still and will be playing around with it as time allows.  Maybe I can come up with more uses.

And maybe I'll get the glue out of my hair, too.

Jane exits,  laughing at herself

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
and at http://chstitchguides.blogspot.com
© Copyright March 22, 2017 Jane M. Wood. All rights reserved.

Frankenstein and the Pixie

My Monitor Edge is Too Prominent

I've been working away on my Computer Pixie,* enjoying every bit of her.  She has presented challenges, though.   There is a lot of dimension in this piece.  The Pixie is in front of the computer, the tote bag is in front of the chair, the beach ball is behind the computer monitor, etc.  My first real issue was with the edge of the computer monitor.  I worked it in padded satin stitch, using Flair over perle cotton padding.  See how far forward the monitor comes?  It is overwhelming the Pixie's arm and the glass she's holding.  That was easy to fix--rip out the Flair and remove the padding, then restitch the monitor's edge in plain satin stitch.  It worked!

Frankenstein Fingers!

This closeup shows that the new monitor edge is much less prominent, but it also reveals another issue--I gave the Pixie Frankenstein fingers!  What you see are bullions done in the darkest pink floss.  That is the color the fingers were painted but when you see them stitched, it screams "WRONG!"

So I ripped again.  This time I went with the palest pink floss.  Using the dark pink drew too much attention to the Pixie's hand, detracting from the glass of tropical punch she holds.

Better Fingers

The new fingers work much better.  You don't see them before you see anything else and you don't think Dr. Frankenstein's monster, either.  The moral is you don't always need to copy the painted colors exactly.  The original color won't work with every stitch.  Bullions are plenty prominent already without making them dark pink against a light area like the glass.

The Pixie Relaxes While I Stitch Blanket

Here's my progress to date.  I have a lot still to do of course.  Once I finish the blanket her chair's sitting on, the Computer Pixie needs wings, antenna, tote bag and contents, shells and a starfish, not to mention chair arms and legs!  Stay tuned...

*The Computer Pixie is by Ruth Schmuff.   The canvas comes with a stitch guide by Sheena James which I have mostly ignored so I can have fun trying to solve the dimension problems this design presents myself.
https://bedeckedandbeadazzled.com/product/computer-pixie/

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
and at http://chstitchguides.blogspot.com
© Copyright February 13, 2017 Jane M. Wood. All rights reserved.

Basketweave on a Stick Tutorial

My Computer Pixie canvas from Bedecked and Beaddazzled is coming right along.   Last night I stitched her pony tail using Basketweave on a Stick and thought you'd like to see how this stitch is done.  I decided to change the Pixie's hair color to light brown, ecru and cream, using Caron's Impressions for the ecru and cream and a brown Felicity's Garden.   All three threads are silk-wool blends which I think create perfect hair texture.

Basketweave on a Stick is done just like regular basketweave except you stitch over a stick of some sort every other row.  Since I need something smooth (don't want to snag the threads) and long (have to cover the area to be stitched), I used a doll makers' needle.  These are thin but long.  The needle I choose is four inches in length.  I bought a selection of these at a big box crafts stores eons ago and use them periodically.    Here is what the sets are like in case you want to pick up a set.
http://www.nancysnotions.com/product/doll+making+needle+set.do

Row Two Underway

The steps for Basketweave on a Stick are simple.

Row One--Stitch a row of basketweave as usual.
Row Two--Lay your "stick" along the diagonal row you will be stitching and do basketweave over the raised item.  Leave the stick in position.
Row Three-Stitch as usual.  Once you are done with Row Three, slide your needle or straw or whatever out from under Row Two.
Row Four--Lay your stick down over the diagonal row you will be stitching.  Now do basketweave over the raised item.
Repeat Rows Three and Four until your area is covered with stitches.

It isn't always easy to see where the stitches go or what color you are supposed to use if you are doing this in a shaded area like I was.  Wiggle the "stick" slightly to glimpse the holes and painted colors.  It helps to use a long stick as it makes wiggling easier.

In the progress photo above, you can see I'd skipped a stitch over the needle. I did all the ecru stitches first and need to go back and add a cream highlight here.  Also note that I covered the painted antenna with my stitches.  It will be couched into position on top of the hair later.  The needle parked on the magnet is a regular size 18 tapestry needle, to give you some idea of how large doll makers' needles are.

Basketweave on a Stick is a good substitute for French knots if you hate making those.  I am not sure it is a good substitute for uncut turkey work as it isn't as dense as turkey work is.  (It all depends on the effect you want, of course.)  You do need to pay attention so you don't accidentally skip one row hidden by your stick.

This stitch is probably easiest to do on 13 count in an area without shading, like a big fat white sheep.  You can use anything for a stick--a plastic straw, a large needle, a laying tool, a pencil, etc.  The size of the loops you are creating will vary according to the diameter of your "stick" so choose wisely.  Also avoid anything like a toothpick that might snag your threads unless you smooth it with fine sandpaper first.

Curly Pony Tail

Here's the end result.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
and at http://chstitchguides.blogspot.com
© Copyright February 8, 2017 Jane M. Wood. All rights reserved.

Introducing The Computer Pixie

Now that I've gotten some counted canvaswork out of the way, it is time to pick up a new painted canvas.  I'm going to stitch Ruth Schmuff's Computer Pixie.  She is rather small at 7 inches square on 18 count canvas and there are a lot of small areas so I should make lots of progress.
https://bedeckedandbeadazzled.com/product/computer-pixie/

There are a series of these pixies which you can see on Ruth's website.
https://bedeckedandbeadazzled.com/?s=pixie&post_type=product&tags=1&limit=10&ixwps=1

Mine has a guide by Sheena James and I plan to follow it--until I am distracted or have another idea since I have to raid my stash for threads and materials.  No, I don't follow instructions well.  Why do you ask?  That's why Blog is named "The Chilly Hollow Needlepoint ADVENTURE."  You just never know what I'll do....

Frankly, me either.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow
Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com
and at http://chstitchguides.blogspot.com
© Copyright January 9, 2017 Jane M. Wood. All rights reserved.