Thursday, April 14, 2011

Choosing Gold Fish Fin and Body Stitches - Part Two

Lillian Chermor's Gold Fish
In this section Carol ask about ways to hide areas you don't want to show on the canvas and Jane proves--once again--communication is HARD.

Carol writes:
One other thing I thought of last night. We discussed the need to to cover up the painted seaweed in the background by stitching over it with a brown floss to match the canvas. Do you think I need to do the same with the seaweed in the fish itself (using a floss that would match the color of the fish underneath). I am a little concerned that my Brazilian floss (Lola) isn't going to provide complete coverage, especially if I do the textured stitches. I guess that means I probably should. Have I mentioned I also hate "pre-stitching"?  :-)
Jane answered:  You might want to stitch over the seaweed that covers the fish body but you might just be able to add more plies to the seaweed than you use on the fish.  If it won't cover as you normally use it, you can just up the amount of thread and see if that works.  If you do tent stitch the seaweed use as few plies as you can get away with, then switch to a sharp needle when you are ready to do the stitching on top.  That makes it easier.  But be careful with those sharps!  I discovered when I started using beading needles on silk gauze that I often touch the tip of my needle to my finger to help find the whole when coming up from underneath.  OUCH 
****I don't understand what you mean here--the part about adding more plies
to the seaweed is confusing me.****
As for confusing you about stitching the seaweed with more plies of Lola so it will cover well, I meant that you might ply the Lola (it's three plies twisted into one strand, right?) and then use one full strand plus part of a second strand. More thread equals more coverage.  Do you normally use Lola as one full strand?  If you do, then two full strands might not work.  It might be too fat to look good.  But you could use one strand plus one ply untwisted from a second strand and get the coverage you need.  I am not very familiar with Brazilian embroidery threads.  The ones I've used behave terribly for me so I am no expert on using them. However, when I am faced with using a thread that doesn't cover well, I add more thread to the needle.  Sometimes I use more of the same thread; sometimes I toss in a metallic or another type of thread.  You can get all kinds of interesting effects when you combine thread types (although that might not be appropriate here).  I've mixed a strand of Wisper with 2-3 plies of DMC cotton for a fuller but not fuzzy beard, and I've tossed in some Accentuate to give sparkle to a beard.  
Light dawns and Carol figures out what Jane was trying to say badly:
I think I've figured out my problem understanding your comments about the seaweed. Lola can't be plied easily; it's like perle cotton. In fact, it's about the size of a perle 5. It's meant to be used as is off the skein.
You'll remember that I decided to use the doubled sided satin ribbon for the seaweed to give it that twisted, dimensional effect. So I need to cover up the painted seaweed in the various places.
My concern is that in the places where the painted seaweed is in the fish shape, the Lola isn't going to give complete coverage and the painted shape will show through. So my question was, do I need to do a tent stitch over the seaweed shape in the color of the fish in those spots to help cover it up? I'm less concerned about the background, as I can always add another ply to the Empress to get the coverage I need.
I get you now.  (Boy, communication is HARD!)  I thought you could ply the Lola to add a bit more thread to the areas where double sided ribbon won't completely hide the painted seaweed underneath it.  I'm not familiar with the nylon threads used in Brazilian Embroidery so I went to the various BE websites which made me think Lola is plyable.  Sorry.

Do you have a matching color in another Brazilian Embroidery thread you could put in the needle with the Lola to provide fuller coverage?  From what you said, two strands of Lola won't work.  In those situations I add a ply or 2 (or 3) of a floss type thread.  You can also toss in a slightly darker shade to make it look like a shadow of the seaweed underneath. 
The area you are most worried about is the area where the seaweed is over the fish body, right?  I personally would simply stitch the fins and the fish body right over the painted seaweed area, then see how much shows.  It is possible that you can add a few tent stitches here and there among the Tressed Stitches instead of your beads and that will cover enough that any area the twisted ribbon doesn't hide looks just fine.  Or you can plop in the beads and they will cover nicely.  The trick will be to get wide enough double sided silk ribbon.  Silk ribbons generally come in three sizes:  4 mm, 7mm and 13mm.   I recommend that you pull out a ruler with metric markings and find the widest area on your fish so you can get the ribbon size that will cover the widest area of seaweed.  Then just be careful with how much you twist the ribbon.  Tack it down with either invisible thread (which is a pain to work with as it is, well, invisible) or a ply of DMC floss or whatever other floss you have in a matching color.  The best ways to hide any color that is not covered by Tressed stitch (or any other) is to add more thread to your needle and to use tent stitches on the bare spots, then make sure you use ribbon that is wide enough to hide most everything.
But until you actually start stitching this, I don't think we will have an exact idea of how much of a problem this will be.  You have to remember that your piece will not be viewed as closely as you view it while stitching once it is finished.  You might notice a bit of paint later but probably no one else will. The casual eye will probably read slight color changes as a shadow.  
Carol writes:
I guess what I REALLY need to do is figure out how well the Lola is going to cover with the stitches I've (nearly) decided on. Which means doing some sample stitching. Bleah
POOR CAROL!  You can always stitch on the actual fish and then rip out if necessary.  I prefer test stitching but some folks can carefully rip out and restitch an area if the first stitching doesn't work the way they want.  Good luck on this.  The fish is going to be really spectacular.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com and at http://chstitchguides.blogspot.com

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Choosing Gold Fish Fin and Body Stitches - Part One


The discussion of the Lillian Chermor Gold Fish canvas continues....
Carol wrote:  Here are some of my initial thoughts on choosing stitches for the goldfish fins and body.
Because of the bling on the bottom fin and the tail, I'm thinking more of a flat stitch with less texture in those places, something like a Byzantine or Jacquard stitch. These two areas need a stitch with a strong directional movement. I think the yellow areas on the bottom fin could either be tent stitch or a satin stitch. Something to let the eye rest.
Jane said:  I also looked at the fins and thought diagonal.  I myself was thinking of a simpler diagonal stitch because I'm not sure how much space you have to show off Byzantine/Jacquard.  I also have the feeling Byzantine isn't going in exactly the right direction.  Here's a chart.  What do you think?  I don't know.  It feels too angular to me....
Ditto Jacquard.  It's got angles where I think we want curves.  I don't want people to think Robot Fish!  
Whatever stitch you choose needs room or you will be endlessly compensating.  Of course there is no reason you have to confine the stitch to one color of fin.  (Duh!  Jane hits her head on the desk to loosen the brain cells.)  You can do an entire run of Byzantine on the bottom fins, for example, skipping the tiny yellow areas to stitch them in satin stitch separately. I need to find some examples of a diagonal stitch that has curves to see if those look better.  But I think we are on the right track.  
Carol again:  The un-blinged top fin is where I can see using some textured stitches that allow for some inclusion of beads. I still like the Tressed stitch you suggested; I also found a few others that I think would work (don't remember the names offhand). Some diagonal movement here would also be good, but less necessary than on the bottom two fins, I think.
The thing I'm now trying to work out in my head is this: All these areas have individual sections with different colors. Do I stitch each section independently of the others, and if the pattern doesn't match up at the edge, so be it? Or do I stitch the entire fin as one section, keeping the pattern consistent across the area and just changing the color when I come to a new area? I think if I do the former, I need to stitch the dividing lines that are shown on the canvas so there isn't such a jolt to the eye when the pattern is different from color to color.
I headed over to the CH NP Adventure and looked at the links to online stitch diagrams I've collected there.  Here are some ideas. Feel free to make retching noises!  
Kimi might work if the chart was turned so the left side was the top.  Stitch with 3-4 plies of your Cire with the bare canvas left between rows exposed and this would work.  Is it the perfect stitch?  Well, no.  I think we can do better but it does have more of a rounded flow.
Carol wrote:   ****not too fond of this one.****
I like Diagonal Cashmere, particularly the second version that has tent stitches between rows.  This could be left open or tent stitches as you prefer.  It is more rounded.  However, the slants are the wrong way. If we used this we'd have to figure out how to mirror image the chart so that the slant ran from the upper right toward the lower left.
Carol wrote:  ****I kind of like this one, especially the version WITHOUT the tent stitches.****
While pondering the above, I started to wonder if some sort of bargello stitch would work.  I went here and started to look at the examples.  I like the curve in Day 150, at least the left side of the stitched example.  Click on that photo and it'll open in a new page so you can see better.  Would something along these lines play nicely with your background?  It will be perpendicular to the background stitch....
Carol wrote:  ****Not so fond of the bargello.****
Maybe something simpler with a diagonal flow is better.  How about these?  Again, the slant is wrong.  The charts both need to turn so that the right side of the diagram is on the top. Then the "run" works for your canvas.  Whether either stitch works is another story!
Carol wrote:  ****These are OK.****
I rather like Sky Stitch but again the diagram has to be turned so that the right side is on top to have the right slant.  I think that's enough for today.  I have to start getting ready to go outside and play catch with the grandkids and I don't want your head to explode!  I'm looking for a stitch with a gentle curve that will make the fins look like they are moving slightly.  Look at the above and tell me what you think and look at your stitch books and see how things look at your end after you look at the real canvas and your background stitch again.
Carol said:  ****This one I REALLY like. I think it would go well with the diagonal cashmere.****
Are you sure you want to use different stitches on the various fin groups?  If so, we need to find several stitches that are vaguely related.  This canvas has a lot going on and I think if we use things that are related, it will pull the whole look together better.  I love your idea of putting a few beads on the top fins since the bottom and tail fins have the round dots but there is nothing on the top fins. 
Carol explained:  The un-blinged top fin is where I can see using some textured stitches that allow for some inclusion of beads. I still like the Tressed stitch you suggested; I also found a few others that I think would work (don't remember the names offhand). Some diagonal movement here would also be good, but less necessary than on the bottom two fins, I think.
For the body, I think the ray stitch turned on its side so it looks like fish scales.
Jane again:  Ray stitch is a good body stitch as it is just like a real fish but we have to be careful that the fin and body stitches look good next to each other.  We want the fish to be a whole, not just a collection of stitches like on a sampler.  It's tricky but worth the effort to think through. 
Carol's back:  I think the diagonal cashmere and the sky stitch are similar enough that they could be used in the bottom fin and tail without too much problem. I still like the Tressed stitch you mention in a previous email; but is that one too different to use in conjunction with these two?
I still like the idea of using the ray stitch. Maybe I use the same stitch on the
top and bottom fins, and a different but related stitch on the tail. That way there is only four different main stitches on the fish. We still need some for the doodads hanging from the fish's head, but maybe those can be really simple.

The thing I'm now trying to work out in my head is this: All these areas have individual sections with different colors. Do I stitch each section independently of the others, and if the pattern doesn't match up at the edge, so be it? Or do I stitch the entire fin as one section, keeping the pattern consistent across the area and just changing the color when I come to a new area? I think if I do the former, I need to stitch the dividing lines that are shown on the canvas so there isn't such a jolt to the eye when the pattern is different from color to color.

Jane again:  I would do each section as a whole.  There will be less compensation.  (I love easy!)  I think if all you do is change colors when you get to a new section, the fish will look less choppy.  I am not certain how much space you have in each little colored section, but you want the tail to be the tail, the  bottom fins the bottom fins, and the top fins their own section.  You may still want to put in dividing lines in some places but once you get a fin section done, you can decide whether you need them.  Some things are hard to visualize before they are stitched.  


Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com and at http://chstitchguides.blogspot.com

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Relax. Breathe. Stitch.

Brenda Stofft
Most of us view our needlepoint as relaxing but you can over do it, you know.  Barbara has a lovely stretching exercise for our hands.
http://createneedlepoint.typepad.com/create_needlepoint/2011/04/reduce-needlepoint-hand-stress.html

UPDATE:  The above has been so popular that Barbara talked her yoga instructor into doing a series of articles for needlepointers on Barbara's blog.  Here is the first lesson.
http://createneedlepoint.typepad.com/create_needlepoint/2011/04/needlepoint-yoga.html


Seeing Barbara's posting reminded me of the lovely Buddha and mandala themed painted canvases available. I thought I'd find some for you to enjoy.  The image above is Brenda Stofft's Buddha Cat.
http://www.brendastofftdesigns.com/Cats%20and%20Dogs.htm


Lani has Buddhas in many sizes and styles, and also Zen symbol canvases.
http://www.lanisneedlepoint.com/buddahs.aspx


http://www.lanisneedlepoint.com/art.aspx


http://www.lanisneedlepoint.com/zensymbols.aspx

http://www.bedeckedandbeadazzled.com/details.php?pid=11811&pname=Buddha


Melissa Shirley has a jolly Buddha canvas in two different sizes.  Kaffe Fasset has a somewhat similar Buddha in bright yellow and pastels charted in his Glorious Needlepoint.
http://melissashirleydesigns.com/gallery/?cat=27

http://www.infostitch.com/search/search.php?op=details&pid=160

HP Designs has several serene Buddhas in various sizes and styles.
http://annieandco.com/products/hp-designs-b141-13

http://www.hpneedlepoint.com/ASIAN6X6.html

Rosalyn has created a wonderful mandala design.  Read all about it here.
http://www.stitchamaze.com/gallery-orchestral/mandala.aspx

Counted thread fans can use charted mandalas on needlepoint canvas.  There are painted canvas mandalas, too.  The second link has them on 10 count canvas for those of us who want a large count.
https://www.cross-stitch-art.com/crossstitch3/SubjectListingsMandalas.htm

http://www.needlepointdesigningwoman.com/gallery.php

There's also a Shining Needle Society class on a mandala pattern but I am not sure if this class is for this year or was last year's.
http://www.stitchelegance.com/Stitch_Elegance/Stitch_Elegance.html

I've found a website that apparently will have spiritual needlepoint designs but it is under construction.
http://www.spiritualneedlepoint.com/

Relax.  Breathe.  Stretch.  Walk around and enjoy the day before you pick up a needle to meditate again.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com and at http://chstitchguides.blogspot.com

Monday, April 11, 2011

A New Look for Needlenook of La Jolla

Needlenook of La Jolla has changed the look of their website.  The first thing I noticed is the new cyberclass "It's All About the Shoes" by David McCaskill.  The class is unique because of all the video demonstrations.  Two videos are up to introduce the class and the on-camera participants and to show what the instructional videos are like.  Class starts May 1, although you can join at any point during the life of the class.
http://www.needlenookoflajolla.com/

There is also a video library that currently has David demonstrating how to use a laying tool in two videos.  "Strip, stroke and lay."  If you have questions you'd like David to answer, his email address is on this page above the videos.
http://www.needlenookoflajolla.com/videos/index.html

If you are charmed by the Witch Shoes canvas, you may wish to explore the designer's website.
http://www.shareonesideas.com/gallery.html

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com and at http://chstitchguides.blogspot.com

Where to Dispose of Excess Stash

Several folks have asked for information on places to either donate or sell items from your stash you no longer want.

Donations:
ANG's Yahoo Group has contact information for the Ohio Women's Prison and the Pine Ridge Reservation, both of which accept stitching items, in a file labeled "Donation Places" on their Yahoo Group site.  If you don't belong, email me and I'll copy the information for you.

ANG's Auction Chairman will be thrilled to have donations of items that can be auctioned off to support ANG's educational programs.
http://www.needlepoint.org/Auction/2011/index.php

I know some guilds have White Elephant sales, with donations of unwanted stash being sold to raise funds for local programs.  See if your local chapter has such a program or would be interested in your organizing one.  Some chapters do a yearly sale or exchange instead of a fund raiser.

Sales:
Canvases Be Gone sells unwanted items for stitchers.
http://www.canvasesbegone.com/

The Stitching Destashing Blog helps stitchers dispose of excess stash.
http://stitchingdestashing.blogspot.com/

Stitch in Peace is a company that sells excess stash for stitchers on eBay.  Of course you can always set up an eBay account and sell items for yourself.  UPDATE:  Two Blog readers have commented that they have not been paid for items they sent to Stitch in Peace that were sold.  Buyer beware!
http://stores.ebay.com/Stitch-In-Peace?_rdc=1

I have no business relationship with any of the above (although the owners of Canvases Be Gone and Stitching Destashing are friends of mine) and I have stitched many items for the ANG Auction.

Written by Jane/Chilly Hollow Blogging at http://chillyhollownp.blogspot.com and at http://chstitchguides.blogspot.com